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In Milan and Paris, the fall-winter 2020 fashion shows were disrupted by the coronavirus epidemic. Fashion took the opportunity to assert an unshakable lightness.

It is the story of a world through fashion. A fortnight ago, in Milan, the energy of the shows was exceptional, it was teeming with ideas. So, instead of conventionally attending the Gucci fashion show, the guests all went behind the scenes, “in the kitchen”, as it would be said. All the parade of the parade is suddenly humanized. The childhood doses of the clothes of Alessandro Michele – the artistic director – jump in the face, when you see them up close. We look the models in the eye and they smile, finally! At least, a brief moment.

At Fendi, ditto, something velvety in the looks of these women can only be seen if we are present at the show, one meter from the models. Everything is wonderfully embodied, moreover, some girls have welcome curves.

At Prada, the folds of open pleated skirts have become wide fringes. The guibolles come out of there, free.

At Emporio Armani, dandies full of poetry wander. The cut of a suit is soft… rounded shoulders, three buttons. No aggressive angles. At Bottega Veneta, sparkly dresses with large batwing sleeves move exquisitely. Pants studded with feathers appear beneath the sober and long coats.

Chez Versace, a wise, black dress with a frantic back on a falling kidney. Everything, everywhere, favours a link between human beings.

READ ALSO: Donatella Versace: “My clothes are weapons” It was at that moment that

 

Fashion shooting often requires models to perform in order to be more vivid. Therefore, how to guide the model during the shooting process is very important …

Fashion shooting often requires models to perform in order to be more vivid. Therefore, how to guide the model during the shooting process is very important. So, how can fashion model photography guide the model? Here are a few brief introductions:

Rich postures and coordinated movements: When instructing the model to arrange movements, attention should be paid to the balance of the centre of gravity and overall coordination of the model, emphasizing the change and torsion of the posture and the coordinated performance of the limbs, especially the rich changes of the hands; language guidance, focusing on micro-carving: Photographers try to guide the movement of the model through language guidance, try not to use hands, and then fine-tune the movement of the model, do not continuously ask the model to change its posture.

Mobilizing expressions, both form and spirit: Good works require both form and spirit, so when the model poses in place, the photographer should also mobilize and capture the model’s expression in order to create excellent fashion photography.

Mainland fashion models first appeared 40 years ago, the famous French fashion designer Pierre. Pelle Cardin knocked on the door of China. At that time, the streets of Beijing were full of military green. He held the first foreign brand fashion show in China. Later, Peel. Cardan brought many of his collections of fashion boutiques. The unit that received him was the China Apparel Federation. At that time, there was a charming secretary in the office. Cardan asked her to try it on her behalf. At first sight, she was bloated. When the eight-layer underwear faded, the slender figure really showed up in front of him. Recommended by the China Textile Association, he selected some tall Chinese girls to go to Paris for model training, and then returned to Beijing to hold a catwalk show, which shocked Europeans and Americans in China. The fashion model culture was soon adopted by the Beijing government and the Chinese textile industry Accept, the New Silk Road Model Contest came into being and has a history of thirty years.

New Silk Road is the earliest fashion model training institution in China. Ye Jihong, Ma Yanli, Jiang Peilin, Zhang Zilin and other famous models were launched through the model contest. Many models entered the film and television recording industry after becoming famous, and are still active. Qu Ying was the first actor of the Hunan Repertory Theatre. She was 1.75 meters tall. She was already a standard female model. She resigned in Beijing. She starred in the movie “Do n’t Ask Where I Come From.” Artistic youth who drifted north in his early years. After Gong Li, she was selected by director Zhang Yimou and starred in the movie “Have Something to Say” with Jiang Wen. At that time, the well-known male model was Hu Bing, starring in many idol movies. Subsequently, male model Li Xueqing and Gong Li co-produced commercials, but there was no film and television masterpiece.

 

　　After the millennium, the New Silk Road Model Contest moved to Sanya. Every year, the Beijing media was invited to interview and share events. Seventeen years ago, I was among the invited journalists. At that time, the female models were over 1.8 meters tall, and the male models were about 1.8 meters tall. They were no longer suitable for film and television actors. Most of the award-winning models failed to stick to today. The T stage is the home of young people. It is the norm for female models to marry and male models to switch. Because of the New Silk Road Contest, Sanya later introduced the Miss World selection, which earned it the reputation of the beautiful capital.

The saddler will launch a collection of lipsticks in March, one step closer to the beauty sector, where the brand is already present but only with perfumes. These 24 shades of red will be sold in 170 of its stores around the world. A new challenge for which the group has taken five years of reflection.

Its tube is in lacquered metal, combining brushed gold, black or white with orange, green or even blue. With at its summit the famous H., It is the last object of Hermès… and its first lipstick. From March 4, this collection will be launched worldwide, in 35 countries: from Europe to the United States, to Japan, before China in 2021. Their price: 62 euros. Almost double the competitors Dior or Chanel, who have been present for many years in the field of high-end cosmetics and make-up alongside specialists in the sector such as L’Oréal (Lancôme) or Estée Lauder.

Beauty products profession

This launch is an event. Because it is indeed a new profession, alongside its famous handbags or silk scarves. “The sixteenth,” says the saddler, who has been constantly diversifying since 1837. It was already present in the perfume since 1951. An activity q UI weighs 5% of its turnover. But not yet in cosmetics, while the majority of major luxury brands have an offer of beauty products. “It is the continuity of what we know how to do. We have been craftsmen from the start, beauty has been at the heart of our concerns for 183 years “, insists Pierre-Alexis Dumas, artistic director of Hermès.

The group took its time. The project was started over five years ago. ” It is a long process. We are entering a sector which requires a lot of expertise, and in which the youngest are even more supportive than their mothers, ” underlines Agnès de Villers, CEO of Hermès Parfum et Beauté, recruited to implement it. 

Natural products

To raise the glove, the group worked with an  “artistic college”. In other words with the creatives of the house, all mobilized to bring their stone to the building. Among them the creative director of shoes and jewellery, Bali Barret, artistic director of the female universe, and Jérôme Touron, creative director of Beauté Hermès. One drew the tube of lipstick. The others worked in colours and textures. “We have more than 75,000 tones listed to colour our silk squares, this makes you dizzy,” explains Bali Barret. It is from this treasure that we drew inspiration. ” 

The lipstick collection is made up of 24 shades. The Hermès red, born in 1925, rubs shoulders with casaque red, inspired by leather, incredible pink or natural beige. “We wanted a durable, feminine and contemporary product,” said Pierre-Alexis Dumas. Hence the choice of a rechargeable tube. And its little orange box – made from recycled cardboard. 

Trained salespeople everywhere

This line will be sold in 180 group stores and e-commerce sites. Specific furniture has been designed by the RDAI agency which makes its shops, and the trained staff. “We have set up a large-scale training system until the launch date, in order to be able to advise our customers and make them discover our products,” continues Agnès de Villers. Each store will have an expert. For the past few days, it’s been New Orleans’ teams being trained. 

After the lipstick, the saddler plans other launches, every six months from September. The make-up line should be extended. The treatment will take longer. “To become a global brand, we must have these three axes”, insisted Axel Dumas, the manager of Hermès, last year. The United States being big consumers of “make-up”, the Asians of creams and France is more versed in perfumes.

If the coronavirus epidemic feeds fears of the fashion world, it does not question the adaptation of companies to new consumption habits. Precollections, collaborations … the pace of innovations is accelerating. The challenge is to bring customers back more often. And sell.

Filled cupboards, consumption, half-mast market and, what’s more, the epidemic of coronavirus: a scent of crisis hangs over the fashion world. But it continues to adapt to new consumption habits. It has increased the number of collections in recent years, as evidenced by a survey by the French Fashion Institute (IFM) for the Salon Première vision, held last week.

Permanent renewal

This large-scale survey (*) reveals that while 49% of brands offer two collections per year, 71% make 4 or even 10 deliveries to the store. Clearly, these lines are built to arrive sequenced in stores, to punctuate the arrival of new products. This pace, formerly the prerogative of the champions of Fast Fashion, with Zara (Inditex) and H & M who invented this model, has won almost the entire sector.

Luxury pressed the accelerator. Half of these labels have 4 collections per year, but part of the products are renewed in stores, every month for 20% of them. And for 12%, at least 8 times a year. A record! “This is a testament to the boom in capsule collections and collaborations. They give rise to events to attract customers more often, ”says the director-general of Première vision, Gilles Lasbordes.

Latest partnerships to date, that of Dior Homme with Nike (Air Jordan) for sneakers. Gucci, for its part, has partnered with Disney for a collection inspired by Mickey and targeting Chinese customers. These collaborations have become essential. According to a study by the Boston Consulting Group, their awareness rate reaches 90% among the youngest. And 50% of luxury consumers have purchased one of these pieces.

Their advantage is also to recruit new customers, who without these alliances with sportsmen, celebrities or young fashionable brands would never have bought a luxury item. Thanks to the logistical organization of luxury groups, in a few days, the iconic coat or dress is on display in the main “flagships” on the planet.

Collections 

The accessible luxury brands, Sandro, APC and Isabel Marant are also betting on novelty. “They are engulfed in the pre-collection system,” says the manager. According to the IFM, if a majority offers two annual collections, three quarters have at least between 4 and 8 deliveries. This means that the first “spring and summer” models are in stores in November, before the rest of the collection in January.

For fall-winter, these pre-collections are delivered in May, two to three months before the mainline. “These seasonal entry pieces are designed to catch the eye, especially of a connected clientele,” said the study. “These premium brands imitate those of luxury. But since they have fewer resources, they cannot keep up with the same pace, ”continues Gilles Lasbordes.

For its part, La Fast Fashion has not set foot on the brake. On the contrary. The study reveals that for 40% of mass-market brands, renewal is done more than ten times a year. It is less for them to create a surprise. “Their strategy is to stick to the market, by being in the trends, and to meet expectations,” remarks the boss of Première vision. This speed, formerly reserved for leaders, has become the norm for these low-cost signs.

Multiply the proposals

Their objective is above all to “multiply the proposals to arouse the crush”. This again presupposes a very organized supply chain, while they are mainly supplied in Asia. “This acceleration shows their desire to lower the level of risk,” concludes Gilles Lasbordes. And don’t miss sales, limiting yourself to one collection per season. ”

A pace that can, however, surprise, while the supply is overwhelming and that in France, the market has been declining for more than ten years. “These are heavily exporting brands,” says the specialist. However, in the world, the production is driven by the increase in the population. H & M will thus open in 2020 for the first time in Panama.